fishing village

Before I get started with this mouth-watering and kinda thrilling story, I need to thank you all for your kind and thoughtful responses to my last post. I know I say it often, but this foreign service thing has been a lot different than I imagined. Even more surprising is how I’m processing it all. I thought I was so much more resourceful and I allowed myself too much comfort in the belief that I could find beauty most ANYwhere. Ha. It’s also worth mentioning that I never expected that so many of my dear and compassionate friends would be people I’ve never even met before. So thanks, guys. Strange as this situation is, it’s incredibly comforting to know you’re out there. And if I could invite you all over for the next lobster dinner, I would.

Speaking of which, on to something delicious…

About 3 hours south of town lies Cabo Ledo, a beautiful stretch of beaches. On the southern most end is a rustic and bare bones area where people let their dogs run free and bring tents for overnight stays. Further up the coast are a couple of resorts where you can rent a shady lounge chair for the day ($10-20 USD) and grab a sandwich ($15) and juice ($5-10). They also have simple little cabanas available for around $250 per night and a full service restaurant.

Just further on is a fishing village. We’ve walked through here during other visits to the area and are consistently approached by enterprising young men wondering if we’re in the market for the freshest catch of the day. This time we came prepared with our icy cooler waiting in the car. We negotiated a deal for some lobsters and were told to wait around for a bit while they collected them. I assumed that our dinner would be arriving on the boats washing ashore in 10-15 minute intervals.

The drowsy little coast would spring to life as groups ran into the surf, yelling, pushing, pulling, and finally dragging the boats ashore. Trying their best to not let them get caught back in the receding wave, insisting always back to sea. We waited as 3 different boats came in wondering why our “brokers” weren’t in the mix, returning to us with a sack of fresh lobsters. Snakes looked out into the bay and noticed a guy diving down, resurfacing, diving down, resurfacing. We watched him swim in and hand over a mesh bag to our middle man. Five minutes later, we were on our way back to the cooler with a generous stash of spiny lobsters. 

At this point I should mention that we recently received a second shipment from the states which included a “Big Green Egg” ceramic grill. So far we’ve done a chicken- as a litmus test-, these lobsters, and a slow and low pork shoulder- all have exceeded expectations. As soon as we got home and the bushbaby was nestled all snug, my tender-hearted husband summoned his appetite, offered a little blessing and got to work splitting them in half. He passed them to me to prep further, cleaning and brushing with melted butter. 

I threw together a quick salad and a simple lemony pasta while he gave the lobsters a quick pass over the grill. Divine! There wasn’t as much left over as we anticipated, but we really did eat a LOT. I had just enough to make him a lobster roll for a special birthday lunch that Monday.

Our next trip out we plan to double or triple the order and host a gorgeous lobster dinner with piles of these beauties spilling from platters down the center of the table. Shall I count you in?

***sorry for the crummy photos- sand in my lens!!!! Bound to happen. No more auto-focus, just manual. Any advice other than “get yourself a new lens”?***

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10 thoughts on “fishing village

  1. Cabo Ledo is lovely. I’ve been half a dozen times, the drive home on Sunday evenings is always pretty traumatic though. I think I’ve seen a fatal car accident every time I’ve travelled on that road. Not good.

    I too bought a sack full of lobsters. Mine were alive and making little “please don’t throw me in boiling water alive” noises from the back of the car on the way home. I hardened my constitution and did just that when I arrived home though. I had a dinner party to go to that night so put all 10kg of lobster in my freezer to have another day. Just came home from two weeks holiday to find the housekeeper had left the freezer door open an inch and everything had defrosted and the freezer was now a solid block of ice. Annoyed that I put myself through the trauma of killing them and I didn’t eat a single one! Also annoyed that all four air conditioners were running and the back door was unlocked, perhaps for the whole two weeks I was away but that’s Angola.

    Someone had given me a great tip on monitoring the freezer while I’m away on holiday. Half fill a water bottle with water, lie it on its side and freeze it. When you go on holiday stand the bottle upright. if the ice is still on the side of the bottle your freezer has been fine but if the ice is in the bottom of the bottle your freezer has defrosted and re-frozen. Tricky hey!

  2. You should write a book! I love the way you write and I feel emotional reading your posts. I pray for you and your family.

  3. I got sand in my lens while hiking through Torres del Paine – same thing auto-focus went. I actually sent it in to Nikon and they fixed it for free (though it may have still been technically under warranty at that point). My suggestion would be to call Nikon/Canon/etc. if it’s out of warranty and ask them what they would charge. Otherwise, you could take it in/send it to a camera shop that professionally cleans cameras and see what they can do. At least you’re due for home leave soon, though I would think you could ship it safely through the DPO if you wanted it taken care of asap. Hope your camera feels better soon.

  4. What a journey! Your Bush Baby is going to have quite the baby book… Any how my advice for your lens is; enjoy the challenge of manual focus for a while. I’ve slowly lost access to my current day amenities as a photographer and with each loss it’s taken me closer to the basics challenging me to not rely on Auto. Actually now that I’m thinking a little more you may want to get it cleaned before the sand starts to scratch the glass, then challenge yourself in manual!

  5. Look ssoo beautiful! What’s the new lens! I’m curious! Between you and Carla Runs the World I have a serious lobster craving going on right now!

  6. Grant- yes, indeed. The white knuckled 3 hour drive. I am always amazed at how little regard fellow motorists have for their own safety- and that of their passengers. And how about those “speed bumps” by the Kwanza River bridge? Sorry to hear about your wasted lobsters. what a drag! They are SO delicious, I encourage you to try again.
    Sheri- Thank you! Hope you and your family are enjoying that steamy Michigan summer.
    Kristin- I don’t know if you have any extra room for lobsters, with that belly full-o-baby! Any day now, right??
    LBJZ- Me too!!!!! Hope you’re putting aside a little Chile fund. We will have plenty of adventures there too, in fact- many more! xo
    towels- Definitely out of warranty. I’ve had it for a while now. It was 100 bucks. Not sure if shipping and repair will total more- but I fear it’s likely.
    BTW- Glad you’re back at the blog! Looking forward to pictures.
    Summer- Please…baby book??? Who you kidding? How long have you known me? THIS is her baby book. The manual focus is just frustrating when you’re trying to get quick snaps- like preshie bushbaby smiles and such. I can’t be fiddling with the manual ring!!! I may just keep that lens on the back burner until we return to the states (39 more weeks) for a cleaning. Plus- like I said, it’s just a basic fixed lens. I’ll use the bulky one for now.
    Dani- no new lens. My trusty old 50mm 1.8- love that indispensable low light trooper. And now- go find the lobster roll food truck in DC!! Those guys used to park a half block from our place in capitol hill on the weekends. SUCH a treat. GO!! And thanks again for the cookie butter! You’re a treat!

  7. It’s nice to see that you are making the most of your time remaining at that challenging post! I have serious lobster and pristine beach envy right about now. Maybe you should treat yourself to a new camera as a reward for surviving Angola!

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